February 14, 2016
The ride from El Chalten to El Calafate is all paved, and relatively short at around 130 miles. The Perito Moreno glacier is another 50 miles west of El Calafate, so add another 100 miles round trip to the glacier and back to the hotel in El Calafate. Still a fairly easy day.
There are two parts to the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares: the Northern part of the park includes El Chalten and Mt. Fitzroy, as well as the Glaciar Viedma on Lago Viedma. This glacier is over a mile wide at the point where it enters the lake.
The Southern part of Los Glaciares includes the Perito Moreno Glacier, on Lago Argentina. This glacier is three miles wide and stands 240 feet tall where it enters the lake, and is 19 miles long overall. Both of these glaciers are part of the Southern Patagonia Ice Field, the third largest supply of fresh water in the world. Perito Moreno is one of only three Patgonian glaciers that is actually “stable” or growing and not receding.
Perito Moreno Glacier
Every 10 minutes or so you hear a loud “crack” and then a canon-like sound. The canon is the chunk of calved ice hitting the water. It’s hard to get a handle on the size of these things: some of the chunks I watched break off and hit the water were larger than an 18-wheeler.
This area is one of Argentina’s premier tourist destinations, and it’s high season here. This is killing my budget, but thankfully I spent a number of nights in the tent up til now. Most places are fully booked, but I was able to find a hotel in El Calafate for $70 a night. There is also a huge music festival going on in town this week and next, and there’s no need to buy a ticket because my room is close enough to the stage that it might as well be on it.
I stumbled on Daniel and Josephine again yesterday as I was returning from the glacier, and we ended up meeting for dinner last night. As Daniel said, we are approaching the “bottleneck” of adventure tourists headed for Ushuaia at the peak season, so I’m sure I’ll run across them as well as others as I continue south.
Today is a “down day” as I do a little maintenance and shop for a new phone (not sure I’ll buy one but will look anyway; they aren’t cheap here. But then I don’t really need a phone anyway…it’s the apps I miss. Perhaps I can substitute my iPad for a while….Hmmm. Will have to explore that idea.
The tires look like they might make it to Punta Arenas after all, so will continue to keep an eye on them (especially the front, which is wearing very oddly), and cautiously do the last 350 miles to the bottom of the world.
On to Puerto Natales tomorrow.
The blue of the glacier seems to be much deeper blue than the Alaska glacier Mendenhall. Still, awesomely beautiful! Glad two wheels will be ble to carry you a bit further!
There were large pieces floating in the lake that were a very interesting blue. I should have taken some photos of those. One of them was somewhere between the size of a fishing boat and a cruise ship. Massive!
I followed you on “Where am I know” past the town, , , to the glacier!! I couldn’t tell it was a glacier till you clicked on the “Satellite” view!! Pretty Cool indeed!!!
These are stunning photos. I would love to see this in person. That part of the world is notorious rough sailing btw… you mentioned winds in the last post, and I just kept thinking “yeah, it’s the roaring 40’s!”
Yes, you can download iPhone apps to your iPad. If they don’t have an actual iPad app, you just 2X the iPhone app, and it will work.
About to hit the screaming 50s…I was told yesterday to reconsider camping in Torres del Paine due to the brutal wind conditions. Seems a shame, but it does get tiring.
Beautiful!
Is Ushuaia your southernmost goal? or… I hear there are penguins there – need photos.
My southernmost “goal” is Puerto Williams, for two reasons: one, the namesake, and two, it’s south of Ushuaia, so when people say they rode to Ushuaia, I can ask them why they didn’t go all the way south? 🙂
Was hoping to visit the penguins tomorrow, but the early ferry is booked, so I now have a reservation with the King penguins on Sunday. And planning a 1/2 day boat trip to visit another penguin colony on Tuesday. Photos to come.
Funny, I was going to ask about Puerto Williams for just the same reasoning. LOL. It shows up every time I check your location. Be safe!
Pat, , , I found a guy who has a Motorcycle shop in Puenta arenas who has a Facebook page!! Don’t know if you do that FB thingy but here’s his address:
https://www.facebook.com/AlelagoWorkshop/timeline?ref=page_internal
If you don’t, , , I’ll post a question on tires for the XT, , , & prices for you!!
Alfred
Thanks Alfred. That’s Alejandro Lago. I’m headed there Thursday..snowing here now. Several people have recommended him. Ian Willcox was there today and bought a set of Heidenau tires.
i have a couple of backup plans already as well but looks like as long as I can make this front tire last another 150 miles I should be good.
Thanks for the help and following along!